Big Sex Toys . . . Reloaded!

Making Your Own Sex Toys

These are extracts from some postings to the Handball Mailing List that we collected over the past couple of years. (Unfortunately, we've lost the information on who posted them!)

Molding Technique #1
Molding Technique #2
Resources

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Molding Technique #1

The difficult part seems to be making the mold. The way I did it was to get Plaster of Paris from any hardware store. It sells for about $3.00 for enough to do an arm if need be.

Find a suitable container that you can use to make the size dildo you want. In my case I used a Pepsi 2 liter bottle and cut off the top. You are going to throw this away after you use it so make sure it ain't cut crystal.
Find a dildo or some other model to mold. In my case I used an inflatable dildo and blew it up to 10" around because this is the size of my lovers hand.
Mix the Plaster of Paris for at least two minutes after you have the amount you need. I found doing this in my kitchen sink was the best place because Plaster dries very hard so washing everything that isn't to be thrown away is important while it is still soft.

(A note from someone else: WARNING. Plaster hardens UNDER WATER. Don't use sinks in your house or apartment. Use buckets. The plaster will settle in your pipes and drains and harden. Your mold making will become EXTREMELY expensive from plumber house-calls.)
I used vegetable oil on the outside of my inflatable dildo before pushing it in the Plaster of Paris mix. Pushing down as opposed to filling the Plaster around probably keeps the air bubbles out. The dildo needs to be perfectly still for about 35 minutes. The great advantage to using an inflatable dildo is you can easily get the dildo out of the Plaster of Paris when it is dry.

(Another note from someone else... this person apparently pours half the mold, lets it set, greases it, and pours the other half: Whatever it is you're molding, place three large marbles at points around the original item being cast. When making the second side, REMOVE the marbles. This creates three impressions on one side while the second side will have matching protrusions. When the mold is put together for pouring latex or whatever, these will make the halves align perfectly every time.
After the mold has set and you have taken your model out of the mold, I used Vaseline on the inside of the mold before pouring in the filler.
What I used as a filler from my dildo is 100% silicone from the hardware store. The kind that is in a caulking tube. The silicone skin dries in about 5 minutes and completely in about 72 hours to 5 days. I can remove the dildo from the mold usually in two days and then let it set out for another two to three days.
Removing the dildo usually means destroying your mold. I found the easiest way to do this was to punch or drill a hole in the bottom of the mold to allow air to escape so the dildo can be easily work out.
Never use this or any other homemade dildo without a condom on the outside to protect your skin from the unknown.

This is a formula that worked for me. There are many books at the library on the subject. Also you can find many resources on the internet. Just type "silicone mold" and click find on your browser and you will find many sources for your project.

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Molding Technique #2

I know how to make the mold. I'll briefly try to describe this. I've always used plaster of paris, but there may be newer materials out there.

Basic two part mold making. (Kind of messy. But it works.)

Get a cardboard box, slightly larger than the object to be cast.
Grease the object with vaseline. (You may find other greasy release materials. Vaseline is what I know.)
Grease the inside of the box with vaseline.
Fill box 1/2 full of wet plaster.
Submerge the object half way into the plaster and keep it there until the plaster sets up.
When the plaster sets up, keep the object in and grease the top surface of the plaster with vaseline. Make sure the top surface of the object is greased well.
Make a couple of notches in the top surface of the plaster so that when you reassemble it later, you can align the two parts successfully. Grease in the notches with vaseline.
When everything is slick with vaseline., fill the box up with more wet plaster of paris. Let it set up.
When set, remove the box. If you've done everything correctly, you will be able to take apart the mold and remove the object. If the two parts stick together, then it means you didn't have enough vaseline.
Disassemble the mold. Remove the object. Look at the bottom of the mold where the bottom of the object was. You will have to carve in a funnel-hole-shape in order to have a place fill the empty mold with silicone or rubber or whatever. You can carve plaster with a pocket knife. (If you think ahead, you can actually insert a funnel-shape object into the bottom of the object-squash before you make the mold. Make sure that no plaster gets inside the funnel. You'll want to use a solid cone shaped object.)
When you get it all out of the box, and cleaned up and have a pour hole carved, you will have an empty mold ready to be filled. When you are ready to pour it full, use bungee cords or strips of inner tubes to put around the mold to hold it closed until the plastic material sets up. Always remember to keep parts of the mold covered with grease for easy disassembly and release.

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Resources

The sculpture text, "Living Materials; A Sculptor's Handbook", by Oliver Andrews, UCalifornia Press, lists a number of sources for the monomer, parting agents, catalysts, etc. that you need. This book is recommended to anyone interested in building unusual things from any materials.

This book is still in print and available from Amazon.com and other online booksellers. Amazon will link you to related books, and also provides links to sources for materials. You might also want to try searching the book sites for similar titles using the keywords "sculpture" and "mold".

You should also check the Yellow Pages in your area for sculpture supplies and plastic supplies. Searching Google or other search engines with the string "sculpture supplies" will turn up some likely sources of materials too.

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